Limey

Have you been to Lime? It's a Mexican restaurant with four locations in Denver. They have a killer cocktail menu and some pretty good food, but I must say, I think I'm too old to eat there.

I have had the (unfortunate?) luck to visit lime on 'Taco Tuesdays' both times I've eaten there. The crowd is what you would expect on a night when they offer $1 tacos. The tacos are good, by the way, I'm just not into the crowd that specifically visits a place so they can have dinner and a drink and walk out for less than $10.

We've been to the Larimer and Landmark locations. Both are good spaces, and the Larimer patio is especially excellent. The patio is the ONLY place you should consider sitting on 'Taco Tuesday' (and possibly other nights of the week - I'm not sure), otherwise, if you're over 24 years old, you will be totally unable to hear your dining companion under the best of circumstances.

The service has been decent at both locations and the food decent or better than decent as well. Their hand cut tortilla chips and salsa are delicious and will shut you up while you wait for a drink during the taco chaos. After that, we tried the ceviche, which was quite good, if a bit unimaginative. A very generous portion of shrimp and unidentified whitefish in a low slung glass with tortilla chips and slightly underripe avocado was a crowd pleaser despite some minimal shortcomings.

I had the shrimp fajitas (despite the fact that whenever I (very infrequently) order fajitas, I feel like I must be in a freaking Applebee's or something). The portion was VERY generous and really quite tasty. Lots of shrimp mixed with lots of onions and a few other token veggies such as zucchini and peppers. A stingy portion of guac and sour cream (where's the fat, people?) and some nicely spiced rice and black beans rounded out the dish. A nice feature is that you can mix corn and flour tortillas, pleasing everyone. I mention that because you should SHARE this dish - it's too much for one person!!

My companion had tostadas, which were good- but remind you after you start to eat them that everything you've eaten and snacked on thus far is just another version of a tostada. Veggies, crispy tortillas, guac, etc. It's sort of redundant. But well executed.

So the net is, good food, good, hip vibe, really loud and pretty fun - but if you're over, say, 31 or so, it will make you feel old to be there. Maybe I should try Sunday or Wednesday next time...

www.eatatlime.com

Technicolor tacos

When I am confronted with too many vegetables to come up with an easy, cohesive meal (and that is rather frequently), I tend towards the 'how much can I use in one recipe' solution. Tortillas in all of their glorious forms tend to help in this kind of situation.

You've got tostadas and tacos (though it's very hard to find tostadas without partially hydrogenated oils in them anymore - let me know if you do! Sadly, Whole Foods have stopped carrying the 'Bearitos' brand, which were pretty darn wholesome), and flour tortillas in various sizes and grains. You can jam them full of any sort of vegetable (or meat if you wish) and some beans and call it a meal.

This particular recipe is more of a method...a way to get lots of veggies into one place and then into your belly. I use whatever I have on hand at home that will go well together and cram it all into a tortilla and call it dinner. But really, it's better than that. It's a go-to meal that requires little forethought, just a fridge with some vegetables in it and whatever tinned beans you have on hand. It comes together to deliver a tasty meal that is nourishing.

Technicolor Tacos

Serves 2

4-6 tortillas (flour hold up better)

1/2 can tinned refried beans with green chiles

2 tsp vegetable oil

1 lb sturdy greens (I used beet greens, but chard, kale, collards, etc will work)

tomatoes, sliced

cabbage, sliced

tomatillos, diced

onions, sliced

peppers, sliced

radishes, diced

(or *any* combination of vegetables you have on hand that would take well to Mexican flavors)

Wash greens thoroughly. Heat 1 tsp oil in a large skillet. Add greens and cook over medium high heat until they wilt and drastically reduce in volume, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.

Heat 1 tsp oil in the same skillet. Add onions and saute for 3 minutes over medium heat. Add peppers and saute a further 3-5 minutes until all veggies are soft.

Heat beans over a flame or in the microwave until bubbly. Heat tortillas in microwave (about 10-15 seconds). Put veggies in containers and let people assemble their own tacos as they see fit. Repeat as needed.

ALL of these ingredients are optional. Nearly any combination will work. Add some cheese on top if you wish. Or salsa. Or guac. Or sour cream. Do whatever you want and don't be limited by my suggestions above. It's an easy, no fuss way to get a healthy dinner on the table.

Mediocre Mexican (but not in Colorado of course!)

I'm in Chicago for the holiday and we sometimes go out for dinner the night before Thanksgiving with friends. This year was not an exception. We headed to Topolabampo (weirdly, we sat at the booth that's in the picture you see on that link). Rick Bayless (if you're not familiar) is another celebrity chef (via PBS) with a retail empire, but as far as I know, only two restaurants, both in Chicago (connected, in fact). His focus is on authentic regional Mexican food. We chose the more upscale of the two restaurants for dinner.

We had a drink at the bar. I'm assured the margaritas are delicious. I thought they were way too boozy, but then again I'm more of a wine drinker. Too boozy might be a good thing if you're not me. We were then seated. Every table in the place was full. I was anticipating a wonderful meal.

I have to pause to share their culinary philosophy with you, as I think it's awesome and it's what every restaurant should be striving for...

'Our goal is to serve you seasonal, sustainably-raised vegetables, meat and poultry; fish from sustainable fisheries. We support local, artisanal farmers.'

THANK YOU, Rick Bayless.

Five of the six diners at our table ordered tasting menus. They averaged about $90/person for a 5 course meal. Three people ordered the 'celebration menu' and two of us ordered the 'mole menu'. The last diner had a ceviche appetizer and a sea bass risotto. May I just say I was not said last diner, and I'm sorry for it.

The celebration menu consisted of a ceviche, mini tacos, lobster, lamb chops and a granita for dessert. I'll try to be brief. The cevice was tuna and it had all sorts of bits and bobs in it....pine nuts, dried berries and all sorts of stuff. It sounds weird (and I wish I'd brought a notepad to write stuff down, but I didn't so you'll have to bear with me), but it really was brilliant.

Next came the mini tacos. They were really more rolled than your traditional (or at least to Americans) u-shape. Theywere filled with huitlacoche, parsnips and black truffle, served with an organic tomato broth and topped with crunchy pickled vegetables and avocado. These were a hit with everyone. I know huitlacoche is sometimes strong and freaky (though my experience with it is limited) but this dish was perfectly composed and disappeared fast.

Next was the lobster. It was nicely presented but the flavor profile was very, very heavy on vanilla. I understand what he was trying to do, but this was literally 1/2 of a lobster doused in vanilla butter. It was too sweet and it just didn't work.

The lamb on the other hand was delicious and perfectly cooked. It was very nicely trimmed and it just melted in my mouth. It was served with local, roasted fall vegetables which were perfectly done. The pumpkin-chilisomethingorother sauce however was not terribly well matched with the lamb and I wish it wasn't on the plate at all.

Dessert on the celebration menu would be best left in the kitchen. I was so distressed by the granita (which can only be described as a sickly sweet grenadine syrup icee) that I don't even remember what else was on the plate, which was a shame. The presentation was beautiful, but the enjoyment ended there.

On to the mole menu. I'm not going to go through each dish, as it will just get repetitive. Mole is a wonderful tradition and a very complex sauce to make (not that I've been brave enough to try!) and I respect it tremendously as well as enjoy it in moderation. That said, five courses of mole in a row is just excessive and stupid. For something this complex, do you really think a diner can appreciate the nuances of five different mole sauces served one after the other after the other? No, Rick. They can't.

The highlight of the mole menu was the savory red chile-chocolate tamal filled with wild mushrooms, mole poblano, homemade goat cheese (indescribeably good), muscovado "jellies" and watercress salad. This dish knocked my socks off. I'm guessing any of the dishes individually would be enjoyable, but again, five moles in a row? Dumb.

Service was pretty chilly and efficient at first. It eventually warmed up, but I think that was after we were $350 in to the wine list (probably by the third course...!). The space is nice; elegant and understated. The servers are competent, though I have to say there were a few occasions where I would ask about some specific aspect of the dish and they would not know the answer. (I should point out that I asked a LOT of questions, and many if not most of them were answered with confidence, but the price point at which we were dining should demand intimate and thorough menu and dish composition knowledge).

In all, I was disappointed (despite a few highlights). The ingredients were exceptional but the execution and the marriage of courses was not. The service was only average for a restaurant of this caliber...or maybe I should say cost. We went to Charlie Trotters the night before Thanksgiving a few years ago and spent almost exactly the same amount of money per diner and it was the most memorable meal (and service) I have ever had in my life. I would like my money back for this one. Or at least half of it.

If you want Rick Bayless food, buy a cookbook or go to Frontera Grill. Topolabampo is better left alone.